Big in Japan

Every civilization has developed its own woven identity. Like the faces of the people, the food on the plate and the spoken language, the fabrics produced by every culture embody the very nature of it.

We have selected a small range of fabrics to celebrate the current incarnation of cloth from Japan. Beautiful in delicate layers, crisp papery structure or wonderful tactile texture, each is a quietly considered master piece.

There is a place where the British and the Japan aesthetic meets. This is in the appreciation of a utilitarian style, of tradition techniques and pure simplicity. We have used these fabrics to explore the possibilities of clean lines and uncluttered style allowing the cloth to be king.

Double gauze is probably the most widely used Japanese fabric. Extremely soft against the skin and suitable for both hot and cold climates. It is created from two layers of cloth tacked together at regular intervals with undetectable little stitches. We selected three double gauze cloths, Soni, Shinjo and Aya.

Button back Trapeze dress in soni double gauze

A double gauze herringbone with a denim appearance but much softer with a slightly padded feel. Perfect from transitioning into Autumn. It will become slightly lighter each time it is washed. This is the heaviest of our double gauze cloths.

Men’s Tee Shirt in Shinjo double gauze and Silt Grey ribbing

Mottled white and blue stripe one side and a true denim blue on the reverse. Shinjo is our lightest double gauze and a perfect match for all our dress patterns.

Aya / Aya blue

Two very differet cloths stitched together. A fine gauze cotton on one side and a thicker mottled cotton/tetron and acrylic mix on the reverse.

Seersucker is a lightweight fabric with a crimped or puckered surface. It is made by slack-tension weave, where the threads are wound onto the two warp beams in groups of 10 to 16 for a narrow stripe. The stripes are always in the warp direction and on grain.

Tottorri Cross / Trapeze Dress in Tottorri Dash

Our Tottorri seersuckers have taken influence from traditional Japanese sashiko patterns, delicate crosses and dashes with a hand drawn quality. They are tightly woven making them more suitable for structured garments, we made a trapeze dress as it holds it’s a line shape well. A pair of 101 trousers and Camber tee or dress would be good other options.

Japanese denim has for some time been regarded as among the best, due to its artisanal means of production. After the Second World War, when American denim makers shifted to industrial modes of manufacture, their traditional shuttle looms were snapped up by Japanese artisans . We have selected 3 Japanese denims, Speckled Denim, Selvedge Denim and Chizu.

Speckled Denim

An 11oz denim that becomes more beautiful and textured after each wash. Suitable for jeans and coats, like the Haremere, Landgate and Strand patterns.

Japanese Selvedge Denim 11oz / Apron Pattern Coming Soon

Selvedge, from the phase “self-edge”, refers to the natural end of a roll of fabric which, when made into a pair of jeans, prevents unraveling of the material. The cost of producing selvage denim is more expensive since it can only be woven at a width of 31″, about half the width of non-selvage denim, and is woven on old looms requiring more skill and adeptness. This leads to a tighter, denser weave along with various imperfections. Selvage denim is usually woven together with a signature red stripe which we have used here for the sides of the apron.

lengthened landgate pattern in Chizu denim

Taking inspiration from traditional Japanese workwear we chose the Chizu Denim to make a Landgate coat that has been lengthened to just over the knee.

Aizu, Kiso, Aichi and Yuni have all been chosen for their quiet subtlety and simplicity. These all sew up beautifully and are a pleasure to work with.

Strand Coat in Aizu cotton / rugby dress in aizu cotton

Aizu cotton is a tightly woven slubby cotton ideal for crisp smart garments like coats or structured dresses like our Rugby pattern.

camber tee in kiso cotton wool blend / strand coat in aizu cotton / foreman coat in aichi cotton / top 64 dress in yuni cotton