Depending on the style, our patterns are available in few size ranges: UK 6-18, UK 18-28, XS-3XL (unisex), men’s 34-54 (Chest) and men’s 34-46 (Waist).

This year we have updated our size chart to be more in line with modern body shapes. These size charts are found on our more recent patterns. It’s important that you check your measurements against the size chart on the specific pattern you are going to be sewing because of this.

Our patterns are drafted for an average height of 167cm/5’6” for women and 177cm/5’10” for men.

When we make up samples in our studio, we lengthen or shorten the patterns in proportion to the model’s height. There is a lengthen/shorten line on all our patterns so that you can adjust to your own requirements easily.

Bust – Wearing your typical bra, measure around the fullest part of your bust, keeping the tape measure level. Don’t pull it too tight. Drop your arms down and take a breath in and out - this will give you the most accurate measurement.

Waist – Measure around the narrowest part of your waist, or if you are thicker around the waist find the measurement point by bending over.

Hip – Measure around the widest part of your hips. If you want to work out how far below your waist this is, tie a string around your natural waist and measure down to this widest point. Our hip measurement is generally 20 cm below waist.

Bicep – Measure around the fullest part of your upper arm whilst your arm is down against your side.

Once you have measured yourself correctly using the instructions above, compare your measurements to the size chart on the pattern. Do not go by the size you would ‘usually’ wear – all brands vary.  If you are between sizes, then generally it is better to go up to the next size. You may need to go between 2 or 3 sizes if there is a big difference between waist and hip size. You can find tutorials of how to do this online.

Finished measurements of a garment are generally bigger than body measurements (unless working with tight fitting stretch garments) – the difference between the two measurements is called ‘ease’. Ease is added to a pattern to make it comfortable to move in and wear.

When choosing your size, check the finished measurements against your body to determine how loose or tight the garment will be. Be sure to take into account the fabric you are going to be using, as thicker fabrics will need a little more ease than finer ones.

We start our drafting process on a size 10/S stand. Once happy with the style and fit, we will grade up to a 20. From here we develop what’s called the curve fit. This fit is a little larger around the bust and tummy area, as well as being longer in the front rise to accommodate a larger middle section.

What’s the difference between the regular 18 and the curve fit 18?

Our patterns have been developed by different pattern cutters over the years and so the differences can vary. You can compare the difference between regular 18 and curve fit 18 in the finished measurement charts on each individual style on the website. Our body measurements for curve fit 18 are 2-3cms bigger on bust and waist, and 1-2cms bigger on the hips (depending on the older or newer size chart shown).

Sometimes if we feel it necessary (and to keep the integrity of the style), we may add a dart to the curve fit.

At Merchant and Mills our styles are generally of a relaxed fit, so cup size isn’t as important as the total bust measurement. That said, on the extended size range we do accommodate for a larger bust (around a C-D cup) than our standard size range (B cup) and in some circumstances, we will add a bust dart if the style requires it. We try our samples on a variety of models and have found that we haven’t needed to alter the bust fit on our patterns.

Our lay plans are as accurate as possible. We add a small amount of extra cloth just to be sure that all pieces will fit and allows for a small amount of shrinkage during the washing process. If you choose to cut out on the flat (not on the fold) then you may find that you have a more efficient lay and will have more fabric leftover.

It is important to measure your grainline from the selvedge for each individual pattern piece in order to cut the pieces out straight and in accordance to the lay plan.

A fabric with a nap means that the fabric will look different depending on which direction you look at it along the length of the fabric. A good example of this would be a velvet or corduroy, or a fabric with a directional print. Sometimes a nap can be very subtle and could just be slight change in colour as the light hits it differently, so it’s always important to check.  If using a fabric with a nap you will need to have all the pieces laid in the same direction on the fabric – choose the ‘With nap’ fabric requirement and lay plan. This can take more fabric which is why, generally, the amount will be greater than the ‘Without nap’ requirement. A fabric without a nap will look the same when looking along the length of the fabric from either direction. Choose the ‘Without nap’ fabric requirement in this case.

We include the seam allowance in all of our patterns (so you do not need to add anything onto your pattern). The seam allowance to be used is stated at the beginning of each pattern, as well as on the last page (glossary).

We are so happy you have discovered the joy of sewing! We would suggest you start on something as simple as possible such as the Orton (soft tote bag), a cushion (in Grove Creations), a Betty (apron) or a Sturdy Tote. Our easiest clothes patterns are: Camber (top/dress), Trapeze (dress), Mathilde (skirt), 101 Trouser, or the Clover (top).

Our instructions are clear and easy to understand. We also have some how-to videos here.

Being based in the UK, we work in metric. We provide an imperial conversion for those who work that way – we round all measurements to the nearest ¼” or ¼ yard.

When we make up samples in our studio, we lengthen or shorten the patterns in proportion to the model’s height. There is a lengthen/shorten line on all our patterns (for sleeve, torso and leg length) so that you can adjust to your own body requirements easily. Refer to the finished garment measurements to decide if you will need to add or subtract length.

Most of our styles are available as a printed paper pattern. You can find a full list of our stockists here. Some older styles are out of print but still available as a PDF. All patterns can be purchased as a PDF which includes an A0 format to be printed at a copy shop or via online printing services, as well as an A4 format (Tiled) which can be printed at home.

Our patterns are now printed within Europe, the patterns are printed on 70gsm white (FSC® certified) paper which is made only 180km away from the printers. Our instructions now come in booklet format rather than A3 sheets and the paper is PEFC/01-31-126 certified.

Before printing out the A4 pattern, do a test sheet print (generally page 2). Measure your square to check it’s the correct size. Only then should you print out the rest of the pattern.

Each page will have a border which should be cut off on two sides only (we cut off right hand side and bottom), enabling you to have an underlap when you tape the sections together. There are also arrows with information on matching sections. We recommend sticking your pages together to create rows first, then attaching your rows together.

Before cutting out your paper pattern it can be helpful to use a coloured marker pen to highlight which size you are going to be cutting out, as well as correct notches and tailors tacks. This can help alleviate cutting the wrong lines. Our patterns have only the cutting line printed so you just cut along the size you require.

We rigorously proofread and test our patterns, but we are only human and very occasionally an error will sneak through. We really appreciate the feedback we get from our customers as it helps us be the best we can be. If you think you have found a mistake whilst making one of our patterns, please get in touch via [email protected]