Overcoat meets duster. An oversized coat for striding through town and country with purpose. Choose to make either lined or unlined. The September works for a variety of seasons, in oilskin or wool it can be a proper winter coat, or in linen it feels like a casual throw on.
All seam allowances are 1.5cm unless otherwise stated.
Skill level - intermediate.
This PDF pattern is made up of 5 A0 pages and 78 A4 pages.
Fabric suggestions - dry oilskin, oilskin, mid - heavyweight linens, 7 - 12oz denim, wool, corduroy, cotton twills or canvas. A heavier weight cloth will result in a more structured coat. For the lining, we'd suggest using Barrier Lining if you are using oilskin. You could also use cotton voile, lightweight linen, cotton poplin, hemp/cotton, lightweight wools or a traditional slip lining.
If you order a paper copy you will be sent a printed version of our pattern. If you select PDF, you are purchasing a digital file which will be stored on your account to be downloaded at any time. PDF's will include a tiled, an A0 copy shop file and your instructions. The tiled file can be used on any home printer and stuck together and is compatible with both A4 and US letter paper. Alternatively, you can send off the copy shop file to be printed full size; we can usually recommend someone in your area. If you are in the UK, we would recommend The Fold Line. The instructions can either be printed at home or simply follow along on your computer or phone.
Buttons - 5 x 2cm/3/4".
Interfacing (optional but recommended for most fabrics) - 1.3M/1.5YD.
Neutral linen - Toast 260. Model wear size 10.
Ecru coat (with dog!) - 9oz Organic Half Panama. Models wear size 8.
Oxblood Oilskin - Conker Oilskin. Model wears size 6.
Navy coat - Dark Indigo Dry Oilskin. Model wears size 26.
Mustard coat with black dungarees - Flax Dry Oilskin in Nicotine. Model wears size 10.
Stripey coat - Hickory Denim. Model wears size 14.
The September has an oversized fit, always consult the finished measurements table to see how much ease you'd like in your coat. For example, Elwen in the video is wearing a size 10 but could wear 8-14 depending on the fit she wanted.
We have been wanting to make a shortened version of September since the pattern was in planning stages. We have made two versions, one in velvet, and one in a heavy weight Tencel. So both quite dressy versions, but you could certainly use a much more utility cloth for a short September.
Katie’s version has been made in Shadow Brown Velvet, in a size 8. Elwen’s version is made in Heavy Tencel Twill Remi, in a size 8.
Other good fabric options would be the either our 8oz or 12oz Organic Sanded Twill.
The September is available as a PDF and paper in sizes 6 – 28.
For reference the length of our finished jacket is 57cm.
Fabric requirements – 2.5m of self and 1.65m of lining fabric at 150cm wide, with or without nap.
See below images for step by step instructions on how to alter your pattern.
It’s always wonderful to make Christmas presents for friends and family, but how nice to set aside some time to make yourself a Christmas dress!
Katie and Elwen are our pattern development and sewing duo, they made themselves 2 Ellis dresses, a Trapeze, a Florence and a shortened September!
Outfit details as follows:
Sleeveless Trapeze Dress – Espresso Velvet (FYI Elwen wears a 12)
Checked Ellis Dress – Hettie Gingham (Katie wears an 8)
Shortened September coat – Shadow Brown Velvet (Katie wears an 8)
Green Ellis Dress – Anouk Heavy Tencel Twill (Elwen wears a 12)
Stripe Florence dress – Biscotti Linen (Elwen wears a 12)
From left to right | 9oz Organic Half Panama with 22mm Gold Corozo buttons, self lined | Khaki Dry Oilskin with 20mm Simple buttons and lined in Barrier Lining Tan | Toast 260 linen with two yet to be released samples in Effie Pink sanded twill and 20mm Simple buttons, self lined.
The September can be found here in sizes UK 6 – 18. The paper pattern will be here in around 4-6 weeks.
Eucalyptus Japanese Canvas + Battleship Grey Organic Cotton Voile + Hemp Buttons Grey 20mm
8.7oz Recycled Denim + 9oz Organic Half Panama + Hemp Buttons Stanley Tan 20mm
Harris Tweed was first woven on the rocky, barren island of Harris over 150 years ago. Originally the wool was washed in soft, peaty water and then coloured with dyes from local plants or moss scraped from the rocks. The yarn was woven on a very early type of handloom.
Originally called tweel, (twill), the name tweed is rumoured to be a misreading of handwriting and a mistaken connection with the River Tweed that fed the border textile industries of the 19th century. It stuck nevertheless and has become a national treasure and global success.
This is no ordinary material, it is the only cloth in the world protected by an Act of Parliament – the Harris Tweed Act of 1993. It is defined as cloth ‘made with 100% pure virgin wool ‘(h)andwoven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebridean islands of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra.’
The yarn must be dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides and every 50 metres of cloth is inspected and approved before being stamped by hand with the orb trademark. No other fabric can call itself Harris Tweed.
Clò-Mòr (meaning big cloth), could only come from these Hebridean islands. The essential balance of raw ingredients, harsh moorlands, men who work the land, the hues and tones, wind and rain, the hardy sheep – each element contributes to the literal fabric of that once itchy material that is always in fashion.
Historically, when an estate owner wanted to choose a tweed for his gamekeepers, the tailor would dress them in a range of cloths before sending them out on to the moors. When the first gamekeeper disappeared from view they knew which tweed to choose.
Harris Tweed is tactile, breathable and warm. With each thread containing a myriad of colours, no woollen cloth has a greater depth or complexity. If you have sewn with Harris Tweed you will know how satisfying an experience it is. We have used tweed to make up several of our patterns. it is perfect for a sleeveless Trapeze, shown here in ‘Applecross’ and the Strand coat using ‘Bernera.’
All of our Harris cloths can be found on our wool page here.
All photos by Roderick Field.